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Kupe Ski / kayak trip

18/19th August 2001

Skiers: Clint, Colin, Dave, Pete, Ruth, Paul and Ingrid
Paddlers: Clint, Colin, Dave, Pete
Reporter: Ruth

This was originally meant to be a paddling trip, but the lure of freshly fallen snow was too much for even the most committed paddlers. Thus arose the unusual sight of a kayak-laden Subaru in the Whakapapa car park. Pete was apparently trip organiser but I understand that this entailed ringing Dave on Wednesday night to say he was going out for dinner and hadn’t found any accommodation. Paul and Ingrid had wisely arranged their own at Raetihi, so that left five of us with nowhere to stay on what was shaping up to be the busiest weekend of the ski season. It was Dave to the rescue however, and we departed on Friday night secure in the knowledge that our accommodation at the Waiouru Oasis was confirmed (images of palm trees and swimming pools fleetingly spring to mind until you remember that this is Waiouru in the middle of winter).

We made the usual stop for supplies in Levin followed by dinner at the Phoenix Garden. The original plan was kebabs, however we were hustled out of the kebab shop by Paul, Ingrid and Dave who had arrived before us. One look at their faces quickly convinced us that Chinese takeaways were a better option than kebabs which had mysteriously transformed from Turkish to Indian since the last visit.

We drove straight through to Ohakune to hire ski gear, marvelling at the quantity of snow along the roadside and predicting plentiful skiing, before returning to Waiouru around midnight to check out our accommodation at the Oasis - a motel unit for the boys on one side of SH1 and a hotel room in the warmth of the main block on the other side for me (the perks of being the only female).

All the water's frozen!

The next morning I received my wake up call along with a ski report from the other side of SH1 (this is one of those times when the benefits of cellphones are obvious). The ski report was rather disappointing, which was hard to believe as I ventured across SH1, wishing I had a camera to capture the magnificent vista of Mt Ruapehu at sunrise, pink-tinged, crystal-clear, and covered from top to bottom with snow – loads of it!

The boys were faffing around in usual Kupe style, cooking bacon and eggs, pulling long-forgotten, unwashed, smelly polypros from the bottom of their bags, deciding which silly hats to wear, and marvelling at the fact that everyone was up before 7.00am – on a Kupe trip?? Unbelievably we were on our way to Ohakune shortly after 7.00am (this must be a Kupe record!). There we met up with Paul and Ingrid to discuss our options. Turoa was closed (except for the beginners slopes) due to high winds, and Whakapapa was also marginal. We thought we’d take a chance on Turoa since it was closer, however after purchasing lift passes and biding our time on Alpine Meadows with hordes of would-be skiers, we changed our minds and decided Whakapapa might be a better option.

Seems like everyone else had the same idea as the Bruce road was chocka and cars were being stopped from going up. Pete asked nicely if he could drop off his passengers at the top (good on yer Pete), and after promising we wouldn’t try and park up there, they reluctantly let us through (probably took one look at the kayaks and thought we were nutters). So that’s how we ended up parked at the Top o’ the Bruce, while Paul, Ingrid and Dave ended up at the bottom. The kayaks did cause some amusement in the carpark and someone asked us if we’d missed our turn off, but I’d recommend it as a good way to find your car amongst 20,000 others.

The other three finally made it to the top and we set off up the chairlifts to the top of the mountain, at which point we promptly lost one other. This was probably due to the fact that visibility varied between nose length and arms length, but we were here to ski and ski we did (or snowboard in the case of Clint, Pete and Paul). I managed to find Dave, and we began a tortuous descent down the Waterfall chairlift. White out conditions are challenging for experienced skiers, however for a relative novice I can assure you they are intimidating, hazardous, and guaranteed to ensure you spend time on your backside, face, or whatever other part of your anatomy hits the ground first (the advantage of writing the trip report is that no one can tell any stories about me). After a slow and careful descent we decided that the Centennial trail was a good one to stick to since it is lower and visibility was slightly better (at least I  could see the end of my skis), so we spent the rest of the afternoon going up and down the same trail along with everyone else on  the mountain. Since only limited areas of the mountain were open, crowds of people descended onto a handful of trails, which was chaotic but great for accelerated learning. Despite the best efforts of manic snowboarders I suffered no more spills and by the time they closed the chairlifts at the end of the day I was totally hooked. I figure if I love it this much when I can’t see the scenery it can only get MUCH better.

I left Dave waiting in the queue for the shuttle bus to Paul and Ingrid’s car, and returned to our car to find the others waiting. Apparently Pete had given up on snowboarding early enough to catch up on a few hours sleep in the meantime. The road down the mountain was very icy which was causing chaos with the traffic, but we made it safely back to Ohakune and went to the O Bar for a well earned drink while we waited for Dave, Paul and Ingrid. Several phone calls and a couple of hours later they eventually arrived. Dave had finally given up on the bus and ended up walking all the way down the mountain to the car. They arrived cold and hungry just as the lights went out in Ohakune. Due to power cuts dinner was a choice of wood-fired pizzas or nothing, and after a day’s skiing they tasted pretty darn good. The presence of numerous candles created a warm, fuzzy ambience (probably helped by the red wine) and by the time we arrived back at the Oasis to watch the Tri-nations test I had to excuse myself and retire to bed.

Winter paddling

After a blissfully long sleep (I told them not to wake me if the ski report was bad) we got up at a far more leisurely pace than the previous morning. Skiing was off the agenda because conditions were no better than yesterday, and anyway, we’re a canoe club aren’t we? We met up with Paul and Ingrid in Ohakune, returned our skis, consumed a few chocolate eclairs, and set off for the Manganui-o-te-Ao river. The plan was for Paul, Ingrid and myself to do the shuttle for the other four, and then head back to Wellington. This is exactly what happened and so I can’t tell you much about the kayaking part of this trip, except that there was a significant amount of water and a corresponding amount of confusion over where the get out was. Consequently no one managed to get out at the same location as the car but as luck would have it, Alan Bell and crew happened to be in the area and due to some incredibly fortuitous timing, all four lads were transported safely back to the car (although rumour has it that Colin and Pete left the river considerably earlier than Dave and Clint after Colin parted company with his kayak on no less than three occasions). Their trip back to Wellington was apparently a slow crawl on a space saver wheel after one of Pete’s tyres developed a hernia near Taihape (get yourself a man-size spare Pete).

Lessons learned? Be very suspicious of Indian kebabs, the Oasis is well worth a visit if you ever find yourself stuck in Waiouru, it is possible for a Kupe trip to depart before 10.00am, always check that you know which swing bridge your shuttle vehicle is parked at, and finally, I may be as elusive as the Loch Ness monster on a river, but I suspect you’ll see plenty more of me on the slopes…..

Ruth